In the middle of Prizren's old town, behind a wall and a fence, stands a brick-and-stone church whose bell tower rises above the rooftops. This is the Church of the Virgin of Leviša, Bogorodica Ljeviška in Serbian, one of the most important medieval monuments in the Balkans. It was rebuilt in the early fourteenth century under the Serbian king Milutin on the site of an older church, and its interior was covered with frescoes that are among the finest of their time.
Its history has been turbulent. Under the Ottomans it was converted into a mosque, and the frescoes were plastered over, which ironically helped preserve parts of them. In 2004 it was damaged during riots, and it is now part of the World Heritage site of Medieval Monuments in Kosovo, which remains on the List in Danger. Access can be limited, but even from outside the elegant arches, the patterned brickwork and the sense of age are striking.
Prizren itself is one of the most attractive towns in the region. The Bistrica river runs through the centre, crossed by an old Ottoman stone bridge, and around it you will find the Sinan Pasha mosque, hammams, churches and narrow lanes full of cafés and silver filigree shops. Above the town the fortress offers a view over the red roofs to the plain beyond. The League of Prizren, an important Albanian national movement, was founded here in 1878, and its museum tells the story.
The riding around Prizren is excellent. The road south-east into the Šar Mountains climbs steeply past river gorges towards Brezovica and the high pastures, with hairpins and wide views. West and south lie the roads towards Albania and North Macedonia. Surfaces range from smooth new asphalt to rough mountain stretches, and local driving can be spirited, so stay alert. Kosovo uses the euro, and you need valid green card insurance or local cover at the border.
Prizren is a large town with plenty of fuel, food and accommodation. Try qebapa and flija, a layered pancake dish baked slowly under a lid of hot coals, or simply sit by the river with a strong coffee. In August the town fills up for its documentary film festival, which turns the old centre into a lively open-air cinema.