Șurdești is a small village in the hills of Maramureș, in the north of Romania, and its wooden church of the Holy Archangels Michael and Gabriel is famous for its spire. Built in the eighteenth century from oak logs, the church has a steep double roof covered in shingles and a slender tower that rises far above the trees, among the tallest wooden church towers in the region. It is one of eight wooden churches of Maramureș listed by UNESCO in 1999, each a masterpiece of local carpentry, built by village craftsmen using traditional techniques.
The churches of Maramureș were built in wood partly because the Orthodox Romanian communities were not allowed, under Hungarian rule, to build in stone, and partly because wood was abundant in the surrounding forests. Inside, the walls are covered in painted scenes from the Bible, often with local touches, such as saints in peasant costume or devils with the faces of unpopular officials. The church at Șurdești is still used for services, and visitors are welcome when it is open, though it is polite to dress modestly.
Maramureș is one of the most traditional regions of Europe, where many people still live by farming, with horse-drawn carts on the roads, haystacks in the fields and carved wooden gates in front of the houses. The riding is superb, with roads winding through green hills, forests and villages. The best road in the area is the climb over the Gutâi Pass, between Baia Mare and Sighetu Marmației, a twisting mountain road through beech forests, with tight bends, steep sections and views over the hills. The surface has improved in recent years, but potholes and gravel can still catch you out, and horse-drawn carts appear around blind bends.
Baia Sprie, about eight kilometres away, is an old mining town with fuel and shops, while Baia Mare, the regional capital, is a larger city with everything you could need. The local food is simple and filling: sour soups, polenta with cheese and sour cream, stuffed cabbage rolls and the strong plum brandy, palincă, offered to visitors as a sign of welcome. Accept a small glass if you must, but only at the end of the day's ride. Winters are cold and snowy, and the best riding season runs from late spring to early autumn.