From the outside, the church in Dębno Podhalańskie looks like a sturdy wooden barn with a steep shingled roof and a squat tower, the kind of building you might ride past without a second glance. Step inside and the walls explode with colour: every surface covered in stencilled and painted patterns, animals, plants and geometric figures, dating back to around 1500, one of the best-preserved medieval painted interiors in Poland. The church, built of larch in the late fifteenth century, is part of the UNESCO listing of Wooden Churches of Southern Małopolska, a group of Gothic timber churches that show the skill of local carpenters who built without nails.
The village lies in the Podhale region, a stone's throw from the Dunajec river, with the Pieniny range to the east and the jagged peaks of the Tatras visible to the south on clear days. Just beyond lies Lake Czorsztyn, a reservoir created by a dam, with two castles facing each other across the water: Niedzica on one side and the ruins of Czorsztyn on the other. Rafting down the Dunajec gorge on traditional wooden boats steered by local highlanders in felt hats is a classic Pieniny experience.
The riding is superb. The roads around the lake and through the hills toward Frydman and Łapsze offer beautiful views, with flowing curves and a few steep climbs. The area has a strong highland culture, with wooden houses, sheep farms and the smoky scent of oscypek, the local smoked sheep's cheese, sold by the roadside. Watch out for cyclists and slow-moving tourist traffic in summer, and remember that the weather in the mountains can turn quickly.
Fuel and services are available in Nowy Targ, about thirteen kilometres away, a market town of thirty-four thousand known as the capital of Podhale. Smaller villages around the lake have restaurants, guesthouses and cafés. Try kwaśnica, a sour cabbage soup with pork, or grilled oscypek with cranberry sauce. The church is still in use, so be respectful of services, and remember that it may close for conservation work or limited hours, so check before you go.