High in the Troodos mountains of Cyprus, in a quiet valley below the village of Platanistasa, stands a small church with a steep, pitched timber roof that comes almost to the ground, making it look more like a barn than a place of worship. This is Stavros tou Agiasmati, the Church of the Holy Cross, and inside it holds some of the finest late Byzantine frescoes on the island, painted in 1494 by Philip Goul, an artist whose name is recorded in a dedicatory inscription. The scenes from the life of Christ and the legend of the True Cross, rich in colour and detail, cover every wall. The church is one of ten painted churches in the Troodos region listed by UNESCO.
The steep roofs, typical of the Troodos churches, were added to protect the buildings from the snow and rain that fall on these mountains in winter, and they also helped to preserve the frescoes inside. Traditionally, the key to Stavros tou Agiasmati is kept in the village, and visitors arrange access with the caretaker or priest; it is worth checking ahead.
The Troodos is a world apart from the beach resorts of the coast. The mountains rise to almost two thousand metres at Mount Olympus, with forests of pine and cedar, terraced vineyards, orchards of apples and cherries, and stone villages clinging to the slopes. The Pitsilia region around Platanistasa is one of the least visited parts of the range, with small villages, old monasteries and spectacular views. Agros, nearby, is known for its rose products, from rosewater to liqueurs, and for its cured meats.
The riding here is fantastic: narrow, twisting mountain roads with countless bends, steep climbs and descents, and very little traffic. Surfaces are generally good, but watch for gravel, rockfalls, potholes and sharp drops on the edges. Remember that Cyprus drives on the left. In winter, snow can close roads at higher altitudes, while summer brings heat, though the mountains are cooler than the coast. Kyperounta and Agros have fuel and shops; for more choice, the larger towns of the plain are a good hour away. Try halloumi, the island's famous grilled cheese, souvla, and the sweet dessert wine Commandaria, made in the villages on the southern slopes of the Troodos.