San Giovanni degli Eremiti is the church with the red domes, five of them, a cluster of small hemispheres painted the colour of a terracotta pot, and they make it one of the most recognisable buildings in Palermo. King Roger II built it in 1132, on the site of an older building that is thought to have been a mosque, and gave it to a community of monks following the rule of Saint Benedict. The domes show a clear Arab influence, and the plan is simple, with a nave, two small chapels and a square bell tower. After the Norman period it fell into ruin, and was restored in the late nineteenth century to its present form, with the domes reopened to the sky.
The best part is the cloister, a small garden of columns in pairs, with pointed arches and a tangle of vines, citrus trees, palms and roses around a well. It is a calm, scented place, hidden behind busy streets, where the noise of the city fades, and lizards sun themselves on the stones. In the garden, you can see traces of the earlier Islamic building, including a small cistern or bath. It is a place that rewards slowness.
You are close to the Norman Palace and the old centre of Palermo, in streets that are narrow, one-way and often crowded, so getting here by bike is a matter of patience. Parking near the church is limited, and the better strategy is to leave the bike in a garage or car park outside the restricted zone, then walk. Thieves target scooters and bikes, so use a strong lock and do not leave anything on the seat. The summer heat can be fierce, with a hot wind from Africa called the scirocco, and spring and autumn are more pleasant.
Palermo is a city of over 600,000 people and has fuel stations on the main roads outside the centre, and endless places to eat in the streets around. Try a sfincione, a thick, spongy Sicilian pizza with onions and breadcrumbs, from a street seller, or a cannolo filled with fresh ricotta. Prices are low and portions are generous, and the people are famously talkative. Spend an hour in the cloister before you go.