The Troodos mountains rise in the middle of Cyprus, covered in black pine, oak and cedar, with the summit of Mount Olympus at 1,952 metres, which gets snow in winter and has a small ski area. Hidden in the villages of the range are ten small churches that UNESCO listed in 2001, because their walls hold one of the finest collections of Byzantine and post-Byzantine wall paintings in the world, dating from the eleventh to the sixteenth centuries. The label does not say which church this is, and there are several dedicated to Panayia, the Virgin, so I will describe the group, which is what makes any one of them special.
From outside, these churches look plain, and the reason is practical. Most have a steep, tiled timber roof built over the original barrel-vaulted stone building, to shed the winter snow and rain, so the whole thing looks like a barn. Inside, the walls and ceilings are covered with frescoes: Christ in the dome, saints and prophets, scenes from the Gospels, and in some, lively donor portraits of the villagers who paid for the work. The colours, often deep blues, ochres and reds, glow in the dim light. Churches are small, some can be opened only by a key keeper, and there is often a request for a modest donation. Dress modestly and be quiet inside.
The mountain villages around, like Kakopetria with its old quarter of stone and timber houses, are a joy to visit, and the air is noticeably cooler than on the coast. Orchards of cherries, apples and walnuts, vineyards producing the sweet local wine, and shaded streams make a lovely setting. The food is plain and good: halloumi cheese, grilled meats, stewed lamb in clay pots, and honey.
The riding is among the best in the Mediterranean. The roads wind through the pine forests in long bends, with hairpins on the steeper sides and viewpoints over the valleys, and the surface is generally good. Traffic is light on weekdays, though weekends see more cars and coaches. Remember that in Cyprus traffic drives on the left. Snow and ice can affect the higher roads from December to March, and summers on the coast are very hot, so the mountains are a welcome escape.
Kakopetria and Kyperounta have small fuel stations, but the larger town of Lefka and the city of Nicosia offer the most choice. Spring, with wild flowers, and autumn are the best times.