The churches of the Troodos mountains look, from outside, like barns. In the high, cool country of the island's interior, where snow can fall in winter, builders covered their churches with a second, steeply pitched timber roof of tiles to protect the older domed buildings underneath, and the result is a plain, sturdy exterior that gives no hint of the paintings within. Inside, walls and ceilings are covered with Byzantine frescoes, some from the eleventh century and later, showing saints, angels and scenes of the life of Christ in rich, deep colours. Ten of these churches are listed by UNESCO.
Kakopetria, a village of about twelve hundred people, is one of the best bases for exploring them. Its old quarter has stone houses with wooden balconies, narrow lanes and a stream, the Karyotis, once used to turn mills and now lined with trout farms and cafés. A little way from the village, the church of Agios Nikolaos tis Stegis, Saint Nicholas of the Roof, is among the listed group and has paintings spanning many centuries. The church of Panayia, the Virgin, which gives this point its name, belongs to the same tradition. Some of the churches are kept locked, so ask in the village for the keyholder, or check the opening times in advance.
The ride up into the Troodos is the reason for coming. From the coastal plains, roads climb through pine and juniper forest, with bends and hairpins, deep valleys and glimpses of the sea. Traffic in Cyprus drives on the left, a legacy of British rule, which is useful to remember at junctions. Surfaces are generally good, though rough at the edges, and the mountain air is cooler than on the coast by several degrees. Winter brings snow and ice to the higher roads, and Mount Olympus, the island's highest point at nearly 1,950 metres, has a small ski area.
Kakopetria has a few shops and cafés, but the larger towns on the coast, such as Limassol, have the main fuel stations, though some stations are found in the hill villages. Local specialities include grilled halloumi, souvlaki and sweet preserves of walnuts and cherries.
Spring, when the hills are green and the cherries are in bloom, is lovely.