Getting to Chelín is part of the pleasure, because it lies on Lemuy, a small island off Chiloé's east coast reached by a short ferry. From Chonchi the crossing is quick, and the vehicles line up on a ramp, with the sea bright and often choppy. Lemuy is a rolling island of small farms, potato fields, sheep and hedged lanes, with a population that is mostly spread over small settlements. There are no big towns here at all, and fuel is not something to count on, so fill up in Chonchi, about 21 km away by the map, before you cross.
The church at Chelín belongs to the same UNESCO group as its neighbours on Lemuy, including Detif, Aldachildo and Ichuac. These are small wooden buildings that came out of the Jesuit mission system and the local boat-building tradition, with walls of planks and roofs and towers covered in wooden shingles called tejuelas. Chilote carpenters used what the forest gave them, mostly alerce and cypress, and their joints are pegged and fitted rather than nailed. The church at Chelín sits by the water, and the setting, with fishing boats pulled up and a grey sea beyond, is as much part of it as the building.
The riding on the island is slow and rewarding. Roads are a mixture of paved and gravel, narrow and hilly, with views over the channels and the mainland Andes when the cloud lifts. The best months are December to March, when days are long and the temperature is mild, but be ready for rain at any time of year. After rain the gravel is slippery and the potholes fill with water. Keep an eye on livestock, since cows and sheep treat the road as a pasture.
Food on Lemuy is plain and fresh: shellfish, bread baked in village kitchens and dishes made with the island's potatoes. Chiloé is thought to be the home of many of the potato varieties found around the world, and farmers still grow dozens of types. Time your trip around the ferry timetable, which can change, and take a coat. The sense of distance from the mainland is part of what makes it worthwhile, and a long still afternoon beside the church, with the light on the water, is memorable.