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Church of Ayia Sotira

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This point lies in the northern foothills of the Troodos range, in a landscape of dry stone terraces, carob and olive trees, and villages that tilt down towards the Nicosia plain. What I can say is that the villages around it, Peléndri and Kyperoúnta among them, belong to one of the richest church regions in the eastern Mediterranean. The Troodos painted churches, ten of them on the UNESCO list, are small, steep-roofed stone buildings that hide Byzantine frescoes inside, and one of them, the Timios Stavros, stands at Peléndri.

For a rider, the pleasure is the slope. Roads here climb in long, tidy bends from the plain, with the temperature falling as you go, and the smell changes from dust and thistle to pine and warm resin. The surface is generally decent but sun-bleached, and gravel gathers on the inside of tight turns, particularly after the winter rains. Ride on the left, which catches continental riders out for the first ten minutes, and watch the goat and sheep droppings on the tarmac. Spring is the best season, when the hills are green and the wildflowers are out; summer is hot enough that you will want to ride early, and the heights stay cooler than Nicosia by many degrees.

The mountains behind are geologically unusual. Troodos is an ophiolite, a piece of ancient ocean floor pushed up onto land, and that is why the island had copper in the first place, and where the name of Cyprus and its metal come from in the ancient world. Highest point is Olympus at about 1,950 metres. Further up the villages make wine, and the Commandaria dessert wine, a sweet one with a thousand years of history, comes from slopes around Kyperounta and Peléndri among others.

Do not expect pumps in the smallest hamlets. The nearest larger town in the data is Tséri, on the plain, and Nicosia itself is not far; fill the tank before heading into the hills. Coffee in a village kafeneio, strong and sweet, costs very little and comes with a view of the mountain and an old man with an opinion about it. Leave time in the afternoon, because the light on the stone is at its best then.

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