Blizne, in the green rolling country of the Subcarpathian region, has one of the oldest wooden churches in Poland, and you can see its age before you step inside. The Church of All Saints dates in its main structure from the late fifteenth century, built of larch and fir logs, with a steep shingled roof that sweeps nearly to the ground and a slender tower that seems to grow out of the nave. It is a classic of the Gothic wooden tradition that spread across the Carpathian foothills, and in 2013 it joined the UNESCO list of wooden churches of the Carpathian region.
The interior is the real marvel. Its walls and ceiling are covered in painted decoration, with patterns of vines and flowers, saints, and scenes from the Bible, applied in the sixteenth century and later restored. The colours are warm and slightly faded, and the effect is more like a cosy family chapel than a cathedral. The church is usually locked, but a key holder lives nearby, and a short phone call or a visit to a neighbour often leads to the door being opened. A modest donation is thanked with real warmth.
The riding in this part of Poland is easy and charming. The roads wander between small villages through hills of meadow, orchard and mixed forest, with the Beskid Niski mountains to the south. Surfaces are good and traffic is light, and the corners are gentle and flowing. Brzozow, the nearest sizeable town, has fuel, cafes and shops, and villages like Jasienica Rosielna and Blizne offer little more than a small grocery shop, so fill up beforehand. Summer is warm, and September, when the mist lies in the valleys, is lovely.
Nearby, you may pass roadside shrines, wayside crosses and small cemeteries. Local food tends to be hearty: pierogi, sour rye soup and good dark bread. A wooden church is the kind of place that rewards a slow visit, and if you get the chance to sit inside in silence for a moment, the smell of old wood and wax will stay with you for a long time.