Chiloé is an island of rain, green hills and wooden churches, off the coast of southern Chile, and the church of Achao, on the small island of Quinchao, is the oldest of them. Built in the eighteenth century by Jesuit missionaries and local carpenters, it is made entirely of wood, joined with wooden pegs instead of nails, and its interior is painted in soft blues and whites, with a vaulted ceiling and carved altars. It is one of the sixteen churches of Chiloé inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000.
The Jesuits arrived in Chiloé in the seventeenth century and established a system of missions, travelling by boat between the islands to visit communities. The churches they inspired combine European architecture with local building traditions, using the abundant timber of the islands and the skills of boat builders. After the Jesuits were expelled in 1767, Franciscans continued the work, and the churches became the centres of island communities, each with its own patron saint and festival.
Getting to Achao is an adventure. From Castro or Dalcahue on the main island, you take a short ferry from Dalcahue to Quinchao, and then ride across the island to Achao, a small town on the eastern shore. The roads on Chiloé are a mix of paved highways and gravel tracks, winding over green hills with views of the sea and the snowy Andes on the mainland on clear days. Rain is frequent and can be heavy, so waterproof gear is essential. The wind can be strong, and the gravel roads can be muddy.
Achao has basic services, and fuel is available in Dalcahue and Castro, so fill up before crossing. The food in Chiloé is famous: curanto, a dish of shellfish, meat, potatoes and dumplings cooked in a pit in the ground, covered with leaves. Chiloé has hundreds of varieties of native potatoes. The Dalcahue Sunday market, with crafts and food, is lively. Standing inside the church of Achao, with rain drumming on the wooden roof and the smell of old timber all around, is a moving experience.