Chugchilán sits on the far side of a canyon, which in the Andes means you can see it for an hour before you reach it. The village is at about 3,200 metres, above the deep gorge of the Toachi river, and it has long been a stop on the Quilotoa Loop, the circuit of villages and crater lakes that winds through the western Cordillera south of Quito. Its houses cluster around a small plaza, and the surrounding land is a patchwork of fields, steep pasture and dark scraps of cloud forest that cling to the sides of the canyons.
Travellers come here for the walking and the scenery, and it has become one of the main bases on the loop. The community runs a small cheese factory, which was started with outside help to give local families an income, and its cheese and other local products are sold in the village. Many of the hostels offer communal dinners and hearty breakfasts, with a wood fire in the evening to fight off the chill, and the whole place has the mood of a small, friendly outpost at the end of the road.
The road from Quilotoa to Chugchilán is the kind of ride you remember. About twenty kilometres of winding highland road, paved in some sections and rough in others, it follows ridges and dips into side valleys, with big views over the canyon and the slopes of the Cordillera. The surface varies, with gravel patches, landslides after rain and animals walking on the road, so keep to a modest speed. Fog often rolls in by early afternoon, and the temperature can fall sharply, so start early and carry a rain jacket and warm layer. The route carries on past Chugchilán toward Sigchos, with the canyon always at your side.
Chugchilán has little in the way of services. There is no reliable fuel in the village, and the nearest dependable pumps are in Latacunga, so top up there before you leave and carry a spare. A few small shops sell basics, and hostels can usually feed you if you ask in advance. Mobile coverage is patchy, so tell someone your plans.
The mornings are the best time, when the air is cold and clear and the canyon lies in blue shadow before the sun reaches the bottom.