A short ride west of Bukhara, in the village of Sumitan, a complex of courtyards, mosques and family tombs sits behind high walls, with blue-tiled portals rising above the surrounding houses. This is Chor Bakr, a necropolis built around the grave of Abu Bakr Said, a descendant of the Prophet who died in the tenth century. In the sixteenth century, the Shaybanid rulers of Bukhara built a memorial complex here, with a khanaqah, a mosque and a madrasa, and the cemetery became a resting place for the powerful Juybari sheikhs, a dynasty of religious leaders with great influence over the khanate. The name means "four brothers", referring to the four Abu Bakrs said to be buried here.
The complex has a strange, calm atmosphere. Its layout is like a city of the dead, with streets and walled courtyards containing family tombs, and the buildings are decorated with glazed tiles and carved wooden doors. It is a place of pilgrimage for local people, who come to pray and to ask for blessings, so visitors should dress modestly and behave respectfully. The setting, among trees and gardens on the edge of the village, makes it a peaceful break from the bustle of Bukhara.
The ride from Bukhara is short and flat, through the western suburbs and then along a road lined with irrigated fields, mulberry trees and village houses. Traffic is moderate, but watch for donkey carts, bicycles, livestock and children. Surfaces vary from decent asphalt to rough patches with potholes. The landscape is part of the Zeravshan river oasis, where irrigation has turned the desert into fertile land for centuries. Dust can be an issue on windy days, and summer heat is extreme, so ride in the morning or late afternoon.
Fuel and services are best found in Bukhara, about eight kilometres away. The village has small shops and perhaps a chaikhana, a teahouse, where you can get tea and bread. Remember that petrol supplies in Uzbekistan can be unreliable, so keep your tank topped up. Take your time inside the complex, walk the narrow streets between the tombs, and look at the tile work and the carved doors. Then sit in the shade for a while before heading back into the city.