Chokh is another of Dagestan's mountain villages, one of those places where the whole settlement is a stack of stone houses on a hillside, with slate roofs, narrow lanes and a mosque and tower at the top. It lies in the same highland country as Gunib, about ten kilometres away, with Khadzhalmakhi, the nearest larger town, a little further off. Fuel and proper shops are down in the valleys, not here, so ride with a full tank and a bit of reserve.
The road is slow and the scenery is the point. Climbing from the Gunib plateau, you wind along ridgelines and through deep gorges, with views opening across layers of grey and green mountains that stretch toward the horizon. Corners are tight, narrow and often blind, and you share the tarmac with sheep, cattle, trucks and locals who drive these roads fast and confidently. The surface is patchy, so keep your speed under your sight line, and avoid the road after heavy rain. Spring brings green slopes and waterfalls, summer is hot below and clear on the ridges, and autumn is dry and golden.
Dagestani villages tend to specialise: some are famous for silver, others for carpets or pottery, and this highland country has a long habit of craft passed from one generation to the next. Chokh is known above all as a place to see an old stone village largely intact, with the traditional houses of the upper quarter still standing. Walking its lanes you can hear the village before you see it, with the sound of animals, water and conversation filtering between walls.
The surroundings are rugged and dry, with limestone cliffs, scrub oak and juniper, and terraces carved into the slopes by centuries of farmers. The mountains of Dagestan rank among the most culturally diverse places in the world, with dozens of languages spoken across tiny valleys, and the contrast between neighbouring villages can be striking. The Avar, Dargin and Lak peoples all live in this highland belt.
A ride here is best done with a guide or at least local advice. Take water, snacks, warm layers and a map saved offline. Sunset light on the stone is memorable, but do not be caught on the road after dark. The hospitality is warm, and a cup of tea is an easy offer to accept.