Long before the Greeks, the Phoenicians or the Romans arrived in Cyprus, people lived on a hillside above the Maroni river in the southern part of the island, in round stone houses with flat roofs, packed close together inside a defensive wall. Choirokoitia is a Neolithic settlement dating back to around the seventh millennium BC, one of the most important prehistoric sites in the eastern Mediterranean. The inhabitants farmed, herded animals and buried their dead under the floors of their houses. Several of the round houses have been reconstructed near the entrance, giving a vivid sense of how they lived. The site received UNESCO recognition in 1998.
The village of Choirokoitia, below the site, has its own history, including a battle in 1426 when the Mamluks defeated the army of the Lusignan king of Cyprus, Janus, who was captured and taken to Cairo. The surrounding landscape is dry and rugged, with terraced hillsides, carob and olive trees, and views down toward the sea. Not far away, the village of Lefkara, famous for its lace and silverwork, sits in the hills on the road toward the Troodos mountains.
The site is conveniently close to the main A1 motorway between Limassol and Larnaca and Nicosia, which makes it easy to reach but not particularly interesting to ride to. The fun begins when you head inland. The roads toward Lefkara and up into the Troodos foothills twist and climb through villages, vineyards and pine forest, with plenty of curves and good views. The Troodos roads, higher up, are some of the best riding in Cyprus, though narrow and sometimes busy with tour buses. Summer heat is intense, so ride early, and remember that Cyprus drives on the left.
Choirokoitia village and nearby Kofinou have small shops and cafés, and fuel stations are found along the motorway and in larger villages. The site itself is exposed, with little shade, so bring water and a hat. The path climbs fairly steeply up the hill, so wear comfortable shoes if you can. Look at the reconstructed houses first, then walk up through the excavated area to the top, from where you can see the whole valley. Afterwards, ride up to Lefkara for a coffee and a slice of something sweet in the square.