In the high Andes of southern Colombia, near the border with Ecuador, the Inca road network reached its northern limit. The Qhapaq Ñan, as the system is called, stretched from here to central Chile, and a few segments in the department of Nariño are part of the UNESCO listing of 2014. Chitarrán is one of these, a stretch of old road near the villages of Córdoba, Contadero and Iles, in a landscape of green hills, ravines and patchwork fields at altitudes of over two thousand metres.
Nariño is a land of volcanoes, with Cumbal, Chiles and Azufral rising above the plateaus, and of deep canyons cut by rivers such as the Guáitara. Near Ipiales, the border town, the sanctuary of Las Lajas is an extraordinary neo-Gothic church built on a bridge spanning the Guáitara gorge, one of the most remarkable sights in South America. The indigenous Pasto people have lived here for centuries, and the villages have a strong cultural identity, with markets, festivals and crafts. The Carnaval de Negros y Blancos in Pasto, held in early January, is one of the most colourful festivals in Colombia.
The riding in Nariño is spectacular. The Pan-American Highway runs through the region, with long climbs, curves and views over the canyons, and the minor roads to the villages wind through hills and fields, often unpaved. The surface varies, with landslides possible in the rainy season. Altitude and cold weather can be a challenge, with temperatures dropping at night, and fog is common. Traffic includes trucks and buses, and local drivers can be aggressive. Check the security situation before travelling in rural areas.
For fuel, Ipiales and Pupiales are the reliable towns. Food in Nariño includes cuy, roasted guinea pig, a local delicacy, as well as potatoes, corn and hearty soups. Hot drinks such as hervido, a warm fruit drink with aguardiente, help against the cold. The Inca road segment is best explored on foot, with a local guide if possible. Stand on the old stones and look out over the hills; the Inca empire reached this far north just before the Spanish arrived, and the road is a reminder of its astonishing ambition.