Most beaches ask you to leave the vehicle in the car park. Chirihama asks you to bring it along. On the west coast of the Noto Peninsula, facing the Sea of Japan, a strip of sand some eight kilometres long is packed so hard by the waves and the fine grain that ordinary cars and buses can drive along it, which is claimed to be unique in Japan. The sand squeaks underfoot, the surf thunders in from the left, and a line of tyre tracks runs away ahead of you along the waterline. It is a surreal experience even if you are only watching it from the dunes.
Whether a motorcycle should go on it is another matter. The packed sand near the water is firm, but higher up it is soft and loose, and a wet day, a rising tide or a single drift of dry grains can put a heavy bike on its side. Many riders keep to the paved road along the dunes and walk down to the beach instead, which is perfectly satisfying. The Noto Peninsula was struck by a severe earthquake in January 2024, and parts of the coast and its roads were damaged and changed, so check current conditions before you plan a route here, and respect any closures.
The coast around Hakui and Chirihama is a gentler, flatter section of the peninsula, with pine windbreaks, rice fields and small fishing villages. The roads are generally smooth and easy, with long straights and gentle bends, and traffic is light outside holidays. In winter the Sea of Japan brings grey skies, snow and hard winds, and the sunsets over the water in clear weather are celebrated. In summer, the beach has swimmers and sandcastles, and the whole place has a relaxed seaside mood.
The town of Hakui, only two kilometres away, has some claim to be the odd one of the peninsula, since it has marketed itself as a town of UFOs, with a small space science museum and a flying saucer motif. The local story involves an old legend and a modern sense of humour. It is a fun place to wander, and a good place to find a meal. Fuel stations, convenience stores and restaurants are easy to find in Hakui, and the seafood of Noto, fresh fish, crab in winter and rich oysters, is worth a try.
The best time is a calm, clear evening, when the sun goes down over the sea and the tracks in the sand turn gold. Bring a windproof layer, since the Japan Sea can be cold even in summer.