Here is a fact that sounds made up and is not: the summit of Chimborazo is the farthest point on the Earth's surface from the centre of the planet. Because the Earth bulges at the equator, this 6,263-metre volcano, only a degree and a half south of the line, stands a couple of kilometres further out than Everest does. It is the highest peak in Ecuador, a broad, glaciated dome that is dormant, and the refuge gate lies on its flanks in the Chimborazo Fauna Production Reserve.
The road up is a high-altitude treat. From Riobamba or the Guaranda highway, you climb through the dry, cold plateau known as the Arenal, an area of sand and volcanic ash, across a landscape that feels more like the moon than the equator. Vicuñas, reintroduced to the reserve, graze on the tussock grass and are very often seen close to the road, along with the small herds of llamas and alpacas kept by local families. The pavement leads to a gate and then a gravel track toward the refuge at about 4,800 metres, so conditions and rules about access may change, and it is important to check them.
The mountain has a long place in exploration history. Alexander von Humboldt tried to climb it in 1802, reaching a height of about 5,600 metres, which was thought to be a world record at the time, and Edward Whymper made the first successful ascent in 1880 with the Carrel cousins. Today, mountaineering is a serious business, and even the refuge walk should be taken seriously, because altitude sickness and sudden storms are real dangers.
The weather turns quickly. Clear dawns bring great views of the snowfield and its neighbour Carihuairazo, but cloud, hail and wind arrive early in the afternoon, so ride up in the morning, wear several layers, and be ready for fingers that stop working. Bring water, energy snacks, and give yourself a day or two at altitude beforehand.