Chike-Taman is a mountain pass on the Chuya Highway, the long road that runs from Novosibirsk through the Altai to the Mongolian border, and for many riders it is one of the high points of that journey. It sits at a little under thirteen hundred metres, which is not especially high by alpine standards, but the pass crosses a rugged ridge and offers a sudden change of scenery, with the road dropping from forested slopes into the deep valley of the Katun. On a clear day, the views from the top reach far across layered ranges.
The Chuya Highway, or Chuysky Trakt, is an old route that was a caravan track long before it became a motor road. It was improved in the early twentieth century and is today considered one of the most beautiful roads in the world by those who ride it. It follows the valleys of the Katun and Chuya rivers, passing through mountain gorges, steppe and finally the high plateau near the border. Chike-Taman is one of its signature climbs, with a long run of hairpins and a viewing platform at the top, where local people sell honey, souvenirs and carved wooden objects.
The road up and down is generally in good condition, but it is busy with trucks and tourists in summer, so careful overtaking is wise. Bends are tight in places, with sheer drops on the outer edge, and fog or rain can reduce visibility sharply. In winter, ice and snow close the pass temporarily. Cattle and horses sometimes graze near the road, and wildlife such as marmots and eagles can be seen.
The nearest sizable settlement is Onguday, a village with a few thousand people, a few kilometres from the pass, with shops, cafés and fuel. Another good option for fuel is a bit further on, but it is wise to fill up whenever you pass a station on this road. Onguday also has the nearby Ongudai museum and some Neolithic rock carvings in the region.
In early summer, the hillsides are covered in flowers, and the larches turn gold in early autumn. A morning start gives you quiet roads and the best light on the mountains, and an evening arrival at a roadside cafe for a bowl of hot soup is a good reward.