The road climbs here into real mountains. The name is old and its origins are disputed, so treat any single story with care, but the place itself is easy to understand: a high, windy shoulder of the Absaroka Range with dark forest, bare grassy slopes and a view that stretches back toward the Bighorn Basin.
This is the best riding on the byway. The road climbs and falls in steep grades, and the descent down the west side, called Dead Indian Hill, is a series of tight switchbacks on a steep slope, with a grade that tests brakes and nerve. Take it in a low gear, use engine braking, and watch for gravel in the bends. Traffic is light, but vehicles towing trailers and campers need space. Good tyres and healthy brakes matter more than horsepower here, and a fully loaded touring bike will have work to do.
At the bottom lies Sunlight Basin, a broad, ranching valley with the creek running through it, and the Sunlight Creek bridge crosses a deep gorge, high above the water. The view from the pull-out is worth the stop, and it is not for those who dislike heights. The basin has a scattering of lodges and ranches, and a small store, with limited supplies. Fuel is scarce, so make sure the tank is full before you leave Cody, and carry spare if you can.
The wilderness here is serious. Grizzly bears live in the Absarokas, and so do black bears, elk, moose and wolves, and the road passes through country with all of them. Do not leave food in the open, carry bear spray when walking away from the bike, and make noise in the brush. In the evening, elk move down to the meadows, and the sound of bugling in September is unforgettable.
Weather in the mountains is changeable. Snow can fall in any month, and the road may close for days in winter. The best time to ride is from late June to September, when the road is clear and the wildflowers are blooming. Dress in layers, as the temperature drops quickly when the sun disappears.