The Chicamocha is one of the great canyons of South America, and the road along its edge has a scale that surprises people who think of Colombia as green and gentle. The river has cut a gorge in the Santander mountains that is more than a kilometre deep in places and stretches for over two hundred kilometres, a dry, rugged landscape of cactus, scrub and layers of rock in shades of ochre, red and grey. Locals will tell you it is among the biggest canyons in the world, and the view from the rim makes you believe it.
The highway between Bucaramanga and San Gil descends into the canyon in a long series of bends, crosses the river on a bridge, and climbs out the other side. The surface is generally paved and in reasonable condition, but trucks are frequent, and the heat in the canyon bottom can be fierce. The upper rim is cool and windy, with a very different climate, and the temperature drop between the two is dramatic. The sun is strong and the air dry, so carry water.
At the viewpoints along the rim there are cafes and a national park with a cable car, a gondola that carries visitors across the canyon from one rim to the other, with the river a thin glittering thread far below. It is a thrilling ride for those who like heights, and the views are enormous. The area has a food tradition of its own, notably roast goat, which is eaten in the cafes along the road, and the local sweets made with fruit and sugar.
The hamlets nearby, such as Cepitá and Aratoca, are tiny, and fuel is not something to count on in them. The sensible places to fill the tank are Piedecuesta, a big town on the Bucaramanga side with some eighty thousand people, and San Gil on the other. Check the tank before you start the descent, because distances are long and the road is demanding.
The indigenous Guane people once lived in this region, and their stonework and rock paintings survive in places. The best light is in the morning and late afternoon, when the canyon walls turn gold, and the middle of the day is hot and hazy. Take care on the bends, where trucks can drift wide, and enjoy one of the great rides of the Andes.