Chiang Mai rests in a broad valley in northern Thailand, ringed by mountains, and its old centre is a perfect square, bounded by a moat and the remains of brick walls. King Mengrai founded it in 1296 as the capital of the Lanna kingdom, a rich northern state with its own language, script and style of temple, and the old city still holds dozens of wats, glinting with gold leaf and carved teak. Doi Suthep, the mountain rising to the west, is crowned by a temple that is visible from the city at night.
Northern Thai culture has a distinct flavour. Khao soi, a curry noodle soup topped with crispy noodles, is the signature dish, and the city's night markets and Sunday walking street are full of crafts, textiles and street food. Mornings start early with monks collecting alms, and the air smells of charcoal, jasmine and frying garlic. The city has a relaxed pace, and many travellers stay longer than planned.
The Mae Hong Son Loop is the reason riders gather here. It is famous for its curves, often quoted as 1,864 in total on the main route, winding through forested mountains, rice terraces and hill-tribe villages. The road climbs to Doi Inthanon, Thailand's highest peak at 2,565 metres, where the air is cool and mossy cloud forest clings to the slopes. Surfaces are generally good, though rain can leave mud and gravel on bends. Be careful of buses and trucks cutting corners and of dogs and chickens on the road. The cool season from November to February is best, with clear skies. From about February to April, farmers burn fields and the haze can be thick and unhealthy, and the rainy months from June to October bring afternoon downpours.
Chiang Mai has everything a rider needs: motorbike rental shops, mechanics, fuel at every main road, and endless guesthouses and cafes. Hang Dong, south of the city, is the usual exit for the loop. Pack rain gear, carry your licence and an international permit, and always wear a helmet, because police checks are common. Fill up before the hills, where stations are fewer.