Cherkessk is the capital of Karachay-Cherkessia, a republic in the North Caucasus, and it sits on the Kuban river where the steppe of the north begins to rise toward the mountains. It is a city of over a hundred thousand people with wide Soviet avenues, concrete housing blocks and a main square, and it has little of the old-world charm that the surrounding region offers. Most travellers see it as the last proper town before the mountains, and that is how to use it, as a place for supplies.
The mountains are the reason to come. To the south, the Greater Caucasus rises in a long wall of snow peaks, with Mount Elbrus, the highest in Europe at 5,642 metres, in the neighbouring republic and visible from some spots on a clear day. Roads climb from here into deep valleys, toward Dombay, a ski and hiking centre among jagged peaks and glaciers, and Arkhyz, a quieter area of forest and lakes with a high-altitude observatory nearby. The Teberda river cuts through spruce-clad gorges, and the valleys are green and cool in summer.
The people of the region are Karachays, Circassians, Russians, Abazins and Nogais, and the local food reflects a mix, with khychiny, flatbreads filled with cheese and potato, and shashlik, grilled skewered meat. Ayran, a salty yoghurt drink, is offered in cafes, and the mountain honey is excellent. Hospitality is a real tradition in the Caucasus, and a polite visitor may be invited for tea.
The road up the valley is a good one for a rider. Smooth tarmac, wide bends and the sound of the river alongside give way to steeper sections with hairpins as the valley narrows. Livestock, cows and sheep, often wander onto the road, and local drivers overtake boldly, so keep your speed under control. Rockfalls and mudflows are possible after heavy rain and in spring, and snow can close high roads outside summer. The best season is June to September.
Cherkessk has fuel stations and shops, with more in nearby Psyzh and Druzhba, but the road into the mountains offers fewer options, so fill the tank before you go. Border zones are close in this region, and it is wise to carry your passport and check local rules for permits.