Chennek is a camp on the edge of the world, at around 3,600 metres in the Simien Mountains, where the highland plateau ends in a giant escarpment and drops away for more than a kilometre into the valleys below. The Simien range is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a landscape of towering basalt cliffs, pinnacles and deep gorges that was carved from an enormous volcanic shield, and the views from the rim are among the grandest in Africa. At the south, the highest peak, Ras Dashen, rises over 4,500 metres, one of the highest in the continent.
The wildlife is a big part of the experience. Gelada baboons, found nowhere else, graze on the grassy slopes in large troops, shuffling along on their bottoms as they pick at the roots and seeds, and the males sport a striking red patch on their chests. The Walia ibex, a rare goat with huge curved horns, lives on the cliffs, and Chennek is one of the best places to see it. Lammergeiers, the bearded vultures, soar along the escarpment, and the giant lobelias, tall, odd, candle-shaped plants, stand along the paths.
The road from Debark, about thirty kilometres away, is gravel for most of the way, and it climbs steadily through the park, with a few rough patches, sections of loose stone and some very steep drops. It is a serious ride for the right bike, particularly in the rainy season, when mud and washouts appear. Fog and cloud can swallow the road in minutes. Park rules require an entry fee, and an armed scout must accompany hikers, which is a long-standing arrangement and is not worth arguing about.
The nights are cold, sometimes below freezing, so bring warm clothing and a sleeping bag if you intend to stay at the lodge or camp. The air is thin, and the walking is tiring, so take it gently. Mornings, when the mist lies in the valleys and the sun lights the cliffs, are unforgettable. Come between October and March, when the skies are clear and the rain has gone.