Chenini clings to a ridge in the Ksour hills south of Tataouine, a Berber village of stone and plaster whose houses seem to grow out of the hillside. Rooms are carved into the rock, some of them below ground, with whitewashed walls and vaulted ceilings, and above them stands a small mosque with a white dome. From a distance, the village is the same colour as the hill and almost vanishes in the afternoon haze, and only a few pale domes give it away.
Its history is long. The Berbers who settled here built hilltop villages for defence, and fortified granaries called ksour, which gave the region its name, served as storehouses for grain, olives and dates. The troglodyte homes kept cool in summer and warm in winter. Local legend also links the mosque to the Seven Sleepers, the youths who, in Christian and Muslim tradition, slept for centuries in a cave, and a row of long graves is said to hold them. It is a sweet, strange story, told by the villagers with a straight face.
This is also Star Wars country. George Lucas took the name Tatooine from nearby Tataouine, and the film crews used landscapes and buildings around here, which has brought a trickle of visitors. The result is a mixture of authentic village life and small souvenir stalls, but the heart of Chenini remains quiet. You will see women in bright wraps, children playing in the lanes, and goats picking along the stony paths.
The road from Tataouine winds across a dry plateau of pale rock and scrub, and it is a pleasant ride, with long views and few other vehicles. Surfaces are mostly tarmac but patchy, with sand and gravel on the bends, and wind sometimes carries dust. Spring and autumn are the best times, with warm days and cool evenings, while midsummer heat is fierce. Start early, carry water, and wear sun protection.
Tataouine, about eighteen kilometres away, has petrol stations, shops and restaurants, and it is the place to fill the tank. In the village there are small cafés and stalls selling tea, bread, and sometimes simple lunches. Bargaining is expected for souvenirs, and a friendly greeting makes everything easier.
Climb through the village to the top and look out across the plain. The silence and the scale give you a sense of how old this country is.