Chegem is a Kabardian town just north of Nalchik, in the fertile belt where the Caucasus foothills meet the plain, and for a rider it is the starting point for one of the best short mountain roads in the region. The Chegem River rises on the glaciers to the south and flows through a deep, narrow gorge before it spreads over the plain, and the town grew where the water emerged. About eighteen thousand people live here, in a mix of old village streets, gardens and Soviet-era blocks, with a neighbouring town, Chegem Vtoroy, almost merging with it. In late summer, the air smells of ripe fruit and hot dust, and the roadside is lined with stalls selling apples, plums and honey.
The people here are mostly Kabardians, part of the Circassian family, with a long reputation for horsemanship, courtesy and cuisine. Kabardian cheese, flatbread and lamb dishes are common, and a visitor who stops for tea may end up invited to a meal. The district also has a Balkar population, a Turkic mountain people whose villages lie higher up the gorges. Their towers and graveyards, some of them hundreds of years old, stand on the slopes, and a few are open to visitors.
Heading into the Chegem Gorge from the town, the road climbs steadily, following the river. The valley narrows, the walls rise, and the road passes through short tunnels and over little bridges, with waterfalls and dark overhanging rock. The surface is generally decent but narrow, with patches, loose gravel and occasional rockfalls after heavy rain. The bends are frequent, and the traffic is a mix of cars, minibuses and local lorries, so overtaking should be done with care. The weather can change rapidly, and fog and thunderstorms are common in the afternoon. The best season is June to September, with September especially clear and calm.
The town itself has fuel and food, since it is large enough for petrol stations, shops, cafés and basic hotels, and Nalchik, only a short distance away, has everything else.
Take a moment at the edge of town to look up at the gorge. The dark walls rise ahead, and the road disappears into them.