Chefchaouen sits at the foot of two peaks in the Rif Mountains, in northern Morocco, and it is famous for being blue. Nobody is quite sure why the old town was painted in shades of sky and indigo. Some say it started with Jewish refugees in the 1930s, others that the colour keeps mosquitoes away or cools the houses, and local explanations vary. What is certain is that the effect is extraordinary, with stairs, doorways and walls washed in blue and fresh paint going on every spring. The town was founded in 1471 as a small fortress by Moulay Ali Ben Rachid, to guard against Portuguese raids from the coast, and it later received Muslim and Jewish refugees from Andalusia, whose influence shows in the architecture.
The road up from Tetouan is the highlight. It twists through the Rif for about sixty kilometres, with steep, forested slopes, deep gorges and views that open up as you climb. The tarmac is generally good but narrow, and trucks and shared taxis come down the middle of the road, so stay on your side of the bend. Fog sits in the valleys in the morning, and in winter there can be snow on the high stretches. Carry layers, since the air is cooler than on the coast.
In the town, the medina is a pleasure to wander. There is a small kasbah with a garden and a museum, and a main square, Plaza Uta el-Hammam, lined with cafes. The Ras el-Maa spring, at the top of the town, supplies water that tumbles through channels and washing places. A path leads up to the Spanish Mosque on a hill above, a white building that is mostly a viewpoint, and the walk is worth it at sunset, when the blue town glows below.
Food is simple and good: tagine, grilled meat, fresh goat cheese and local bread. The region is known for growing cannabis, and visitors will likely be approached by sellers. A polite refusal is enough. Fuel is available in the town and on the main road. The best seasons are spring and autumn, when the air is mild and the hills are green.