Perched on a rocky spur above a forest of firs and beeches, at around seven hundred metres, the castle of Puilaurens looks like something drawn by a child who loves castles: battlements, towers, walls following every edge of the rock. It is one of the so-called Cathar castles of the Languedoc, a group of fortresses linked to the crusade launched against the Cathar heretics in the thirteenth century. After the region came under French control, the castle was rebuilt as a royal fortress guarding the frontier with the Kingdom of Aragon, which lay just to the south until the seventeenth century. The climb up from the car park is steep but short, and the views from the top over the Fenouillèdes and the Pyrenean foothills are superb.
Like many old castles, Puilaurens has a ghost: a White Lady said to wander the walls, linked by legend to a medieval princess who once stayed here.
The area around is wild and beautiful. To the north, the D117 runs between Quillan and Axat through the Défilé de Pierre-Lys, a narrow gorge with cliffs towering above the road and the river rushing below. To the east, the Gorges de Galamus are a classic: a narrow road carved into the cliff face, with a sheer drop to the river, a hermitage clinging to the rock and only room for one vehicle in places. It can be very busy in summer, and traffic restrictions may apply, so check before you go. Further east still, the castles of Peyrepertuse and Quéribus perch on even more dramatic ridges, each worth a visit.
The riding here is among the best in southern France. Roads twist through gorges, climb over passes and wind through forests and vineyards, with constant changes of scenery. Surfaces are generally good, but gravel, fallen rocks and narrow sections demand attention, and summer brings camper vans and tourists. Spring and autumn are perfect, with mild temperatures and fewer crowds; winter can bring snow higher up.
Quillan, about twelve kilometres away, has fuel, shops and restaurants. Try a cassoulet, the rich bean stew of the Languedoc, or local charcuterie with a glass of Corbières or Fitou red wine, and finish with a coffee overlooking the river Aude.