The Charyn river has spent roughly twelve million years cutting a canyon through the red plain of south-eastern Kazakhstan, and the result is one of the great surprises of Central Asia. The gorge runs for about a hundred and fifty kilometres, reaching depths of around three hundred metres, and the most visited stretch is the Valley of Castles, where wind and water have carved the red sandstone into towers, arches and ramparts that seem to have been built by giants. At sunset, the whole thing glows deep orange and the shadows run purple.
The canyon is the centrepiece of Charyn National Park, which also protects a grove of relict ash trees along the river, survivors of forests that covered the region millions of years ago. A path leads down from the rim to the riverbank, where the air is cooler and the sound of the water fills the gorge, and it takes about an hour each way to walk the best section. The soil is dry, the vegetation is sparse, and in summer the heat on the rim is fierce, so water and a hat are essential.
The ride to Charyn is a long, straight one across the steppe, from Almaty through Kegen or Kokpek, with wide views and few trees. The road surface is generally acceptable, but long stretches of loose gravel and tarmac patches mean that a steady hand is useful. Wind can be strong, and in spring the plain is green, while in late summer it turns brown. In the early morning or the evening, the light is soft and the air is cooler, and the ride is more comfortable than at midday.
Kegen, the nearest town of any size, is the place for fuel and supplies, and you should fill up there. The park charges a small entrance fee, and simple campsites and guesthouses are available nearby, with basic facilities. Bring cash, plenty of water and snacks, as services are limited. Spring and early autumn are the best seasons, with comfortable temperatures. Take care near the edge of the canyon, where the rock is crumbly and there are few barriers.