Chankillo stands in the desert of Peru's northern coast, in the valley of Casma, and it is among the most puzzling ancient sites in the Americas. Here, more than two thousand years ago, people built a vast ceremonial complex on a barren plain: a hilltop fortress of concentric walls, a temple, plazas and a long ridge of towers. The people who raised it lived in the early centuries before the Inca and long before the Spanish, and their culture left no writing. The complex is a UNESCO site, and it is regarded as one of the oldest solar observatories in the Americas.
The country around is stark. The Pan-American Highway runs through a desert of sand and rock, with irrigated green valleys cutting across it where rivers descend from the Andes. Between the valleys, the plain is empty and brown, and the wind is steady, carrying fine sand across the road. Riding here is mostly long, straight, flat running with a strong crosswind, and the main hazard is trucks overtaking on blind rises. In the early morning, a low sea mist often covers the coast, and then burns off by late morning.
The fortified temple is the biggest structure, a stone building of three concentric walls and many gates, laid out like a maze. Archaeologists debate whether it was a fortress or a ceremonial centre. The walls are partly restored, and from the highest point you can see across the plain to the towers. Walking the site takes an hour or two, and there is little shade, so bring a hat, sun protection and plenty of water.
The nearest large town is Casma, on the coast, where you will find fuel, simple restaurants and places to sleep. It is known for fresh seafood, particularly ceviche, which is served with sweet potato and toasted corn. Further along the coast, Huarmey and Chimbote have more services. The best season is from April to December, when the weather is dry and the days are bright, though the coastal desert is always dry. Summers, between January and March, are hot.
This is a place for those who like to walk slowly through the past, under a wide sky, and puzzle at what its builders were thinking.