Lorestan is one of the least known corners of Iran, a country of folded mountains, oak forests and deep valleys in the heart of the Zagros. The Lurs, who have lived here for centuries, are traditionally herders who move their flocks between winter pastures in the lowlands and summer pastures in the high hills, and the region gave its name to the Luristan bronzes, a remarkable group of cast metal objects from the first millennium BC, in the form of animals, horse bits and ceremonial tools.
Chameshk lies in this upland, about thirty kilometres from Khorramabad, the provincial capital. The city itself is worth a visit for the Falak-ol-Aflak, a Sasanian fortress that stands on a hill in the middle of town, with a museum inside. Nearby is the Kaldar cave, which the ride links with this stop, one of many caves in the limestone of the region, and the area is full of springs, waterfalls and rock formations.
The roads in the Zagros are among the best for riding in the country. They climb and twist through the forest, with views down into the valleys, and often follow rivers, with villages of stone houses and flat roofs. Surfaces are variable: smooth on the main routes and broken on the minor ones. Heavy rain in spring can cause landslides, and winter snow closes some high roads. Summer is warm in the valleys and pleasant at height, while autumn brings gold to the oaks.
Fuel is available in Khorramabad, a city of over three hundred thousand people, and in the small town of Vasīān, which has fewer than two thousand. Fill the tank and buy supplies before you leave. In the villages, bread, yoghurt and honey are easy to find, and a family may invite you for tea. Check travel advice for Iran in advance and keep your documents with you.