The Chuya Steppe is a surprise after the green valleys of the northern Altai. Beyond the mountain passes, the road drops to a broad, high, open basin of stony plain, with short, dry grass, long views and a big, hard sky, and the mountains stand back on every horizon. It is a cold desert at around 1,700 metres, ringed by snow ranges, a landscape closer to Mongolia than to the Siberian taiga, and Chagan-Uzun lies on its edge, a small settlement near the Chuya River, in the district of Kosh-Agach.
The district has some of the coldest winters in southern Siberia, with temperatures that can drop below minus forty, and the summers are short, dry and sunny, with big swings between day and night. The people are mostly Altaians and Kazakhs, herders who keep sheep, goats, yaks and horses on the steppe, living in wooden houses and yurts, and the local cuisine includes boiled mutton, dairy products and strong tea. The mountains to the south hold the glaciers of the Tavan Bogd range, on the border with Mongolia, and the area is a gateway to high-altitude treks and climbing trips.
The geology tells a violent story. About fourteen thousand years ago, an ice dam in the Chuya basin burst, releasing a flood of glacial meltwater that raced down the Katun valley, leaving giant ripple marks and boulders as big as houses. Geologists count it as one of the largest known floods, and its traces are visible in the landscape, in terraces and gravel bars, along the road.
For a rider, the Chuya Steppe is open, fast and windy. The road runs straight for long stretches, with only the odd curve, and the wind can be savage, pushing a bike sideways, so grip the bars and lean into it. The surface is usually smooth, though frost cracks appear, and trucks heading for the Mongolian border are common. The sun is intense at altitude, and temperatures drop rapidly after dark, so carry warm clothing. Summer is the only comfortable season, from June to early September, and a frost can come at any time.
Fuel is the thing to plan. Services are sparse between settlements, and the nearest border post is a restricted zone, so carry your documents. Climb up the nearest low rise, and look across the plain. The sense of space is complete, and the sky is enormous.