Chacao is where the mainland ends and Chiloé begins, and the crossing is part of the pleasure. The Chacao Channel is a short, sharp stretch of water between the Chilean mainland and the big island, only a few kilometres wide but famous for strong tides and sudden weather. Ferries run back and forth across it all day from Pargua, carrying trucks, cars and motorcycles, and the trip takes about half an hour. On a clear day, you watch for dolphins and sea lions, and seabirds follow the boat, hoping for scraps.
The village of Chacao itself is small and plain, with a landing, a few houses, and a wooden church in the typical style of the island. Chiloé's wooden churches, sixteen of which are listed by UNESCO, were built by carpenters from shipbuilding traditions, using local cypress and larch and wooden pegs instead of nails. Their shingled towers and pastel colours are among the most distinctive sights in southern Chile. Ancud, the larger town, lies twenty-four kilometres to the south and has the fuel, supermarkets and a good fish market.
The island has its own culture, a blend of indigenous Huilliche tradition and Spanish colonial history, and a rich folklore of sea spirits and forest creatures, including the Trauco and the ghost ship Caleuche. Chilote food is hearty and local, based on potatoes, seafood and above all curanto, a feast of shellfish, meat and potato cooked in a pit with hot stones. You can try it in the roadside restaurants, and a bowl of fish soup will warm you after a damp ferry crossing.
For riders, the island is a place of rolling green hills, small farms and sudden views of the sea, with Route 5 running down the middle. The roads are generally good, though there are potholes, and the traffic is light. Rain is frequent, and the climate is mild but wet, so waterproofs are essential, and fog can reduce visibility on the coast. Summer, from December to March, is the best season, though the weather is never reliable. Fuel is easy in the main towns, but less so in the villages, so top up when you can.