Cetinje is a small town with a big past, the old royal capital of Montenegro. It lies in a high karst basin at about 650 metres, behind the mountain wall of Lovćen, and for centuries it was the seat of the prince-bishops who ruled this stubbornly independent land. The Cetinje Monastery, founded in 1484, still holds the right hand of St John the Baptist and a fragment of the True Cross, according to tradition. The streets are lined with former embassies from the days when European powers kept legations here, and the whole town has the air of a capital that has shrunk but kept its dignity. About fifteen thousand people live here.
The ride in is part of the story. The famous serpentine road from the Bay of Kotor climbs the steep face of Lovćen with some twenty-five hairpins, giving views over the bay that are among the finest in the Adriatic. The road is narrow and old, with tight bends and stone walls, and it can be crowded with tour buses and hire cars, so go early in the morning. Kotor lies about twelve kilometres away, and Budva a little farther. At the top, the road levels into the high plateau, with beech woods, stone walls and a cold, clean air that contrasts with the heat of the coast.
Nearby Lovćen National Park holds the mausoleum of Petar II Petrović-Njegoš, the poet-bishop and ruler who is the national hero, on a summit at about 1,660 metres, reached by a long stairway. The name Montenegro, black mountain, comes from the dark forests of this range. Winter brings snow, and the weather can change quickly, with fog and cold wind, so carry layers.
Cetinje has fuel stations and shops, and there are cafes in the centre where you can have a strong coffee. The local cured ham, njeguški pršut, and the cheese from the area are famous and worth trying. The best season is late spring to early autumn, with September especially pleasant, with fewer crowds and clear air. The town is quiet, even on a busy day, and it is a good place to rest after the hairpins.