Cerro Mucho Malo, the Hill of Much Evil, is the name locals give to the ridge on which Chankillo's thirteen towers stand, and the name probably refers to the difficulty of the terrain, bare, stony and exposed. It is a long, low spine of rock rising above the plain, and the towers run along its crest, a procession of squat stone structures with stairways and small chambers at the top. From the plain, the ridge looks small. From the top, it commands a wide view over the valley, with the green strip of the irrigated river on one side and the empty desert on the other.
The climb is short but hot, and the loose stone makes for tricky footing. In the dry air, even a short walk can be tiring, so take it steadily and carry water. The towers were built of stone and mud mortar, with carefully fitted blocks. Visitors can walk between them and see how they were placed. From their tops, sentries could have watched the plain for hours, though the main purpose was the sun, not the enemy.
Wind is a constant companion. It blows across the ridge with a steady force, whistling around the stones and lifting fine dust. In the early morning, the light is soft and golden, the air is still, and the temperatures are bearable. The best views are at dawn, and the sunset along the western coast is also fine, as the sun falls into the Pacific haze. The sky is usually clear, and at night the stars are brilliant.
Getting here involves a ride along the coastal Pan-American Highway, a mostly straight road across the desert. Casma is the nearest town of any size, with fuel and food, and there are other stations on the highway. Stops are widely spaced, so fill the tank when you can. On the road, expect fast trucks and buses, and give them room. The desert is dry for most of the year, and fog, known as garua, can blanket the coast in winter. Between April and December the weather is usually settled.