Cerro Gordo lies in the high country of Durango, on the western side of Mexico's central plateau, where the land rises toward the Sierra Madre Occidental in long, bare ridges. The landscape is a mix of grassland, mesquite and scattered oak and pine, with dry riverbeds that flood after summer storms, and the sky is huge and very blue.
The ride is named for the temples of Nombre de Dios, a town founded by Franciscan friars in the sixteenth century as one of the first Spanish settlements in the region. Its church and convent, built of stone and adobe, speak of the missionary push into the north, when friars and soldiers followed the silver routes. The mining towns of Zacatecas and Durango grew from the same impulse, and the colonial road, the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro, ran through this country. Today Nombre de Dios is a quiet town where the plaza is shaded by old trees and the streets are lined with low houses.
The state of Durango has a particular fame in cinema, since many Westerns were shot among its dry hills, with stars such as John Wayne passing through, and the landscape still looks like the backdrop of those films. The state capital, Durango, is a handsome colonial city and a good base. The roads here are generally good, though they can be rough on the edges, with long straights, gentle climbs and wide views. Cattle roam freely and may be on the road, particularly at dusk, so keep your speed under control.
Fuel is a matter of planning. Durango city, about sixty or seventy kilometres away, has everything, and Nombre de Dios has a small station, but the villages in the hills may have none, so fill before you leave and carry a spare can. Carry water, since shade and shops are scarce. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with warm days and cool nights, while summer brings storms and winter brings frost at night.