Central Island is a volcanic cone in the middle of Lake Turkana, a small rough dot of black rock and red earth rising out of green water, and there is no road to it. Reaching it takes a boat from the western shore, which is a matter of local arrangement and good weather, because the lake can turn violent in minutes when the wind picks up. The island holds three crater lakes, and the largest is a vivid, quiet pool where Nile crocodiles breed in big numbers. It is among the strangest places in Kenya, steaming and barren, with cormorants nesting on ledges and the smell of sulphur on warm days.
For a rider, the interest is in the approach. The lake basin sits at the northern end of Kenya's rift, a huge empty country of lava and sand. From Maralal or Marsabit you head into the Chalbi Desert, a flat, white pan of salt and dust, then drop down toward the shore at Loiyangalani, where palm trees appear unexpectedly around natural springs. The wind here is legendary and constant, driving sand across the track and making a loaded bike shudder. A lot of the road is gravel and corrugation, so keep tyre pressures sensible and ride at a speed that gives you time to read the surface.
The people of this country are among Kenya's most distinctive. Turkana pastoralists live along the shores to the west, and the El Molo, a small community, live on the southeastern shore and traditionally fish the lake. Their huts are built from palm fronds and bent poles. If you stop at a village, ask before taking photographs, and pay what is fair. Everything here is hard won.
Fuel is a real concern. Marsabit and Maralal have stations, and Loiyangalani may have limited supplies, but never rely on it. Carry spare fuel, plenty of water and a satellite tracker. The lake is also home to many crocodiles, so do not swim and be careful at the water's edge. The best time is June to October, when the weather is dry, though the wind never really leaves.