Peesh skali means singing rocks, after the way the wind howls and whistles through the cliffs and crags of this reserve on the slopes of the central Balkan range. It lies on the northern side of the main ridge, not far from Botev, at 2,376 metres the highest peak of the Balkan mountains, and it protects beech and spruce forests, alpine meadows and rocky slopes, part of Central Balkan National Park. Chamois live on the crags, and bears, wolves and golden eagles roam the area. Access to the reserve is restricted, but trails in the surrounding park offer spectacular walks.
On the southern side of the range, the town of Kalofer is the birthplace of Hristo Botev, the revolutionary poet who died fighting the Ottomans in 1876 and gave his name to the peak. Kalofer is also known for its lace and for the Epiphany tradition, when men dance in the icy river. To the north, the town of Apriltsi sits in a valley surrounded by forest, and Gabrovo, the main town of the region, is known for its humour and its House of Humour and Satire, a museum dedicated to jokes and cartoons.
The roads around here offer some of the best riding in Bulgaria. The Shipka pass, east of the reserve, crosses the Balkan range with hairpins, forests and views, and at the top stands a monument to the battles of the Russo-Turkish war of 1877. Nearby, the strange concrete saucer of the Buzludzha monument, built by the communist party, sits on a peak. The surfaces are variable, and fog and rain are common in the mountains. Summer is the best season for the high roads.
Gabrovo, about twenty-four kilometres away, is the main town for fuel, repairs and a hotel bed, and its House of Humour and Satire, a museum devoted to jokes and cartoons, is a cheerful antidote to monuments. Kalofer and Apriltsi cover the basics and have guesthouses that serve hearty home cooking. Kebapcheta, grilled minced-meat rolls, with a cold Bulgarian beer, are the classic end to a day in the mountains. The reserve itself is strictly protected; walk the park trails around it instead, and keep a close eye on the weather on the high ground.