Albocàsser and Catí are two quiet stone towns in the inland hills of Castellón, and between them, in a rocky ravine, the Centelles shelters hold some of the prehistoric paintings that make this corner of Spain a capital of Levantine rock art. The style is distinctive: small human figures, often archers, painted in red with long legs and dynamic poses, hunting deer, ibex and boar, sometimes in groups, sometimes in battle. The sites are part of the UNESCO listing of Rock Art of the Mediterranean Basin on the Iberian Peninsula. Nearby, the Valltorta gorge, near Tírig, holds some of the most famous examples, and its museum explains the art and the people who made it.
Catí is a beautiful medieval town, with a Gothic church and fine stone houses built by wealthy wool merchants. The surrounding countryside was once famous for its cheese and sheep. Nearby is the spring of l'Avellà, where a small spa has been taking the waters since the nineteenth century, and a sanctuary stands above it. Albocàsser, in a fertile valley, is known for its almonds and olive oil.
The riding here is splendid, if you like empty roads and wild scenery. The roads that link the villages climb and descend through limestone hills, past almond terraces and pine woods, with countless curves and very little traffic. Some sections are narrow and the surface is uneven, so take care, especially after rain, when gravel can be washed onto the road. The weather is Mediterranean but with mountain influence: hot, dry summers, cool winters, and sudden storms in spring and autumn.
The nearest town of five thousand or more is Alcalà de Xivert, twenty-three kilometres away on the coastal plain, with fuel and supermarkets. The inland villages have bars and small restaurants, but services are limited and opening hours can be erratic, especially in the off-season. Fill up before heading into the hills. Try local dishes such as olla de la Plana, a hearty stew, or cured meats and cheeses from the mountains. If you are lucky, you may find homemade cakes made with almonds and honey.