Mula does not announce itself to motorcyclists, which is a pity, because the roads around it are among the most enjoyable in inland Murcia. The town of nearly seventeen thousand sits on the river that bears its name, below the long grey wall of the Sierra Espuña to the south, and its old quarter climbs a hill capped by a castle. Cejo Cortado, seven kilometres from the centre, is a small crag in dry hill country where a shelter holds prehistoric paintings, the kind of place you find by following a farm track and reading the contours.
Come in spring, when the almond blossom is long gone but the broom and the wild thyme are out, or in October, when the heat finally releases its grip. In July and August the whole district bakes, the pavement turns soft by afternoon and shade is rare. The roads here are open and sunny, mixing long rolling stretches with short bursts of tighter bends where they cut through the foothills, and the surface is generally sound. Take care at the field crossings, where tractors drop mud on the asphalt.
Mula has a quiet culture of its own. Its Holy Week is well known in the region, a theatrical affair of drums and processions, and the local cooking is a good example of the Murcian huerta with its vegetables, peppers, rice dishes and, in season, wonderful apricots from nearby orchards. A short ride takes you to Albudeite or Ricote, the latter lying in a valley of orchards that kept a Morisco population longer than most. The Ricote valley has a sleepy charm and a few places to eat, though not all will be open on a weekday afternoon.
Fuel is easy: Mula itself has several stations on the roads in and out, and the larger Murcia lies a short ride east. Water is a more serious question, because the hills around the shelter are dry, so carry more than you think you will need. If you are visiting the paintings, take some care, as the shelters are fragile and the best approach is quietly and in small groups.