The Cederberg is the wild, rust-red country about three hours north of Cape Town, a mountain range of sandstone that wind and water have carved into arches, pinnacles and overhangs. It lies in the Western Cape, inland from Clanwilliam, and it is protected as a wilderness area. The rocks glow orange at sunset, and the formations have names, such as the Maltese Cross, a tall pillar, and the Wolfberg Arch, a natural bridge. The air is dry and clear, smelling of fynbos and dust, and at night the stars fill the sky in a way that city people rarely see.
The name comes from the Clanwilliam cedar, a rare conifer that grows only in these mountains and has been much reduced by fire and the demand for timber. Today, the range is better known for rooibos tea, which grows in the sandy soils of the surrounding valleys, and nowhere else in the world on any scale. Local farms harvest the needle-like leaves, and you may see them laid out to dry in the sun. The San people lived here for thousands of years, and left rock paintings in caves and shelters, including those at Stadsaal, which show animals and human figures in red ochre.
The roads are mostly gravel, and that is part of the appeal. The R364 from Clanwilliam climbs over the Pakhuis Pass, a fine piece of road engineering from the nineteenth century, with views over the valley, and then runs on through the heart of the range. The poet C. Louis Leipoldt, who loved this country, is buried near the top of the pass. The gravel is generally well graded, but corrugations, loose stones and steep drops are common, and a bike needs to be treated with respect. Take it slowly, and give yourself plenty of time.
Weather is extreme. Summers are very hot and dry, and winters can be cold and wet, with occasional snow on the peaks. Fires are frequent in the fynbos. The best seasons are spring, when the wildflowers cover the plains, and autumn.
Carry water, food and a repair kit, because help is a long way off. A few farms and camps offer meals and accommodation, but book ahead.