The Cederberg is a place where rock has been sculpted into shapes that seem to belong to another planet. This wilderness of sandstone peaks lies north of Citrusdal in the Western Cape, about two hundred kilometres from Cape Town, and wind and rain have carved it into arches, pinnacles and caves, in red, orange and gold. The Wolfberg Arch, the Maltese Cross and the Stadsaal Caves are among the best known, and in the caves, San rock paintings of animals and people, thousands of years old, can still be seen.
The mountains take their name from the Clanwilliam cedar, a rare conifer that once grew in large stands and is now confined to a few high ridges, after centuries of logging and fires. Down in the valleys, the land is dry and dusty, with fynbos on the slopes, and the surprising thing is that the area is the home of rooibos, the red bush tea, which is grown here on small farms and has been drunk by the local people for generations. In spring, wildflowers cover the slopes, and in winter, snow sometimes whitens the peaks.
The roads are mostly gravel, though the main route over the Pakhuis Pass, another work of Thomas Bain, is a pleasant ride. Gravel surfaces vary with weather and grading, so be ready for corrugations and loose stones, and keep your speed under control, especially on bends and through dry river crossings. Summer is hot, with temperatures over thirty-five degrees, so mornings are best, and winter nights can be freezing. Distances between services are long, and mobile coverage is patchy, so plan carefully.
There is no town in the heart of the mountains, only a few farms and campsites, so fill the tank in Citrusdal or Clanwilliam before you go, and carry water, food and a basic repair kit. Many farms offer simple accommodation and meals, often with a braai in the evening, and the stars here, far from any city, are astonishing. Cederberg wines are made on some farms, at an altitude that gives them a distinct character. Take sunscreen and a hat, and allow yourself time to walk to the rock formations.