Beneath the low hills of the Judean lowlands, the Shephelah, lies a city of caves. Maresha was an important town of the Iron Age and the Hellenistic period, and its inhabitants carved thousands of chambers into the soft chalk beneath their houses: cisterns, olive presses, stables, quarries, burial caves and columbaria, rooms with hundreds of niches, probably used for raising pigeons. Nearby Bet Guvrin, known to the Romans as Eleutheropolis, became a major city in later centuries. The national park and its caves were listed by UNESCO in 2014 as a microcosm of the land of the caves.
The highlights include the bell caves, huge bell-shaped chambers created by quarrying chalk from the early Islamic period, with walls rising to over twenty metres and light streaming through small openings at the top, an eerie and beautiful space. The Sidonian burial caves have colourful wall paintings of animals and hunting scenes from the Hellenistic period. There is also a Roman amphitheatre, and in some caves visitors can take part in archaeological digs.
The area lies within Israel, in the rolling hills between Kiryat Gat and the Hebron hills, with farmland, vineyards, forests and kibbutzim. The roads are generally good, with light traffic outside towns. Summer is hot and dry, winter mild with some rain, and spring brings wildflowers to the hills. The nearby kibbutz of Beit Guvrin and the town of Kiryat Gat have services, including fuel and food. Before travelling, check the current security situation and travel advice, as conditions in the region can change quickly, and the area is close to the line separating Israel from the West Bank.
The caves are cool inside, a welcome relief on a hot day, but the paths can be uneven, and some caves require going down steep stairs. Bring water and sturdy shoes. The park has a visitor centre with information and toilets. If you have time, the nearby Tel Lachish, another important biblical site, and the vineyards of the Judean hills are worth a visit. Combine the visit with Jerusalem, about an hour away, for a day of history spanning thousands of years.