The Marne valley at Dizy is where the vineyard slopes begin. A few kilometres from Épernay, this small village of nearly 2,000 people lies at the foot of the hillside, and above it the rows of vines climb in neat stripes to the edge of the forest. In autumn, harvest brings tractors, trailers and pickers, and the lanes are sticky with grape juice and splashed with the dark red of crushed fruit. It is a busy time, and also the best, if you can bear the delays.
Beneath the vines lies something more remarkable still. The chalk of Champagne is soft enough to dig, and over the centuries growers and merchants have carved galleries into it, kilometres upon kilometres of cellars where the bottles rest at a constant cool temperature for years. A wine cave like the one marked here is part of that web, a vaulted, damp tunnel of pale rock where the air smells of cold stone and a little of yeast. In 2015 the hillsides, houses and cellars of Champagne were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list, and the cellars are a large part of the reason.
Many producers welcome visitors, though most prefer an appointment, particularly in the busy season, and tastings are typically small and unhurried. Motorcycles are comfortable enough on the road here, but remember that a tasting and a ride do not mix; spit, or hand the keys to someone else.
The riding along the foot of the slope is simple and attractive. The road runs between vines and orchards, with small curves and short climbs into the villages, and the views across the valley are wide. Wind can be strong on the exposed ridge above, and early frost in spring can threaten the buds. The light on the vines in September, when the leaves begin to turn, is one of the finest sights in France.