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CURVESCOUT / PLACE TO SEE

Cave Rock

Opening times, access and services can change - check before you go.

Cave Rock is a lump of volcanic rock on the Nevada shore of Lake Tahoe, and US 50 goes straight through it. Two tunnels bore through the stone, the older from 1931 and a second added in the 1950s, and when you ride through you are literally passing through a mountain that has been sacred to the Washoe people for thousands of years. The Washoe consider it a place of power and healing, and rock climbing was banned there after a long legal fight. Visitors are asked to treat the site with respect, and the park around the base has a boat ramp and picnic area.

The lake is the star. Tahoe is among the deepest in the world, at about 500 metres, and one of the clearest, so the water close to shore shifts from turquoise to deep blue, with granite boulders glowing under the surface. It sits at about 1,900 metres, ringed by Sierra peaks that hold snow well into early summer. The lake is cold all year, even in August, and in winter the surrounding mountains are a skiing region.

The riding here is a pleasure. The east shore road, along US 50 and then SR 28, runs close to the water, with views over the lake, long, flowing curves and short climbs through pine and juniper, and the road surface is generally excellent. Traffic can be heavy, especially at weekends and in summer, and the speed limit is low through the tunnels and near the beaches. Watch for pedestrians, cyclists, and drivers who brake without warning when the view opens up. Early morning is quiet and bright, and in autumn the aspens add colour. Winter brings snow and chain controls on the passes beyond.

Fuel and food are easy. South Lake Tahoe, about thirteen kilometres south in California, is a proper town with everything, and Stateline, just over the border, has casinos and restaurants. Kingsbury and Zephyr Cove also have services. The parking at Cave Rock is small and fills in summer, but is free for short stops. The altitude can make you breathless if you climb on foot, and the sun is stronger than you expect, so bring sunscreen. At sunset the lake turns gold and pink, and the whole scene feels very still.

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