The nearest settlements are tiny, such as Piedra Gorda and Cerrito de la Cruz, and the most reliable town for fuel and supplies is Trancoso, a fast-growing town of about fourteen thousand, some fourteen kilometres away, so it makes sense to fill the tank there before wandering the back roads.
The region was opened up by the Spanish after silver was found in the 1540s. The city of Zacatecas, a short drive away, became one of the richest in New Spain, and its historic centre, climbing a ravine with a baroque cathedral covered in carved pink stone, is a UNESCO listing. Haciendas, great fortified estates which processed silver or raised cattle, sprang up across the plateau, and their ruins and restored buildings are scattered through the countryside, with high walls, chapels and arched gateways. The Hacienda de Peñuelas is among those that carry the old story.
Riding the plateau is gentle and open. The roads are long, straight and wide, with distant mountains on the horizon, and the surface is variable, sometimes smooth and sometimes broken at the edges. Cattle and goats cross unpredictably, and dust and wind can be a nuisance in spring. Distances between towns are large, and cellular signal can be patchy, so carry water, cash and a spare layer. The dry season brings clear skies and cold nights, with frost possible in winter, while the rainy season from June to September brings dramatic thunderstorms in the afternoon.
Local food is rooted in ranch life, with carne asada, asadero cheese, gorditas, and prickly pear fruit, called tuna, in season. In a small village shop a cold drink and a bag of roasted pumpkin seeds will do nicely.
If you intend to enter any caves, check access beforehand, as many are on private land, and never explore alone.