Vitoria-Gasteiz is the capital of the Basque Country and possibly its most underrated city. It sits on a high plateau, the Llanada Alavesa, surrounded by low mountains and wide farmland, and its medieval old town climbs a small hill in the shape of an almond, with the old cathedral of Santa María at the top. This is the cathedral the label refers to, a Gothic church begun in the thirteenth century as both a temple and part of the town's defences.
For decades Santa María suffered from structural problems, with leaning pillars and cracked walls, and its restoration became famous because the cathedral stayed open to visitors throughout the work. Guided tours take you onto scaffolding, into the foundations and up the walls, showing how a Gothic building actually works. The British writer Ken Follett was so taken with it that it inspired part of one of his novels, and a statue of him now stands outside. There is also a New Cathedral in the city, a huge neo-Gothic building from the twentieth century, so do not confuse the two.
The riding around Vitoria is varied. The plateau roads are open and fast, crossing farmland and passing reservoirs, but within half an hour you can reach the mountain passes of the Basque interior, such as the climb to Urkiola or the roads into the Sierra de Entzia and the Valderejo natural park. Weather on the plateau can be harsh in winter, with cold winds and occasional snow, and pleasant but fresh in summer. In the city itself, traffic is moderate and the centre is largely pedestrian, so park on the edge of the old town and walk up.
Vitoria has fuel, food and everything else you need. The old town is full of bars serving pintxos, and the city is known for its green spaces; it was European Green Capital in 2012 and is ringed by a belt of parks. The Battle of Vitoria in 1813, when Wellington defeated the French, is commemorated by a monument in the Plaza de la Virgen Blanca. Early on a weekday morning, with the city waking up and the light warming the old stone, Santa María is at its best.