Cathedral Cove is a sea arch on the east coast of the Coromandel Peninsula, a high, pale tunnel of volcanic rock cut by the waves, which links two small beaches and frames the sea like a window. It stands within a marine reserve, and the water around it is clear, with rocks and kelp beds that attract fish and snorkellers. The cliffs above are crowned with the red flowers of pōhutukawa, the New Zealand Christmas tree, which bloom in December and give the coast a blaze of colour. The arch itself is vast, high enough to hold a house, and the sand underfoot is soft and white.
The way to it is a walk, not a ride, from a car park above Hahei, and the walk takes about forty-five minutes each way on a path with steps and a few hills. The track has been damaged by storms and slips in recent years, so check its status with the Department of Conservation before you set out. Do not expect to ride down, and leave your gear locked and out of sight at the car park. In summer the track and beach are crowded, so go early or late, when the light is softer and the sand is quiet. The cove was used in the Narnia films, and it appears in many a postcard.
The road to Hahei from Whitianga is a pleasure, a twisting coastal road through farmland and bush, with views of the bay and small islands, and a good surface. It has tight bends and some steep sections, and the traffic in summer can be slow, with caravans and holiday cars. Rain can make the road slippery, and the verges are soft. Take your time, enjoy the view, and keep an eye on the weather, which can change fast on this coast.
Close by is Hot Water Beach, where hot springs rise through the sand at low tide, and visitors dig their own pools in the sand, an experience that is best arranged around the tides. Whitianga, about thirty minutes away, has fuel, shops and a choice of places to eat, and Hahei has a few cafés and a shop, though prices are higher in summer. Fill the tank in Whitianga before you set out. If you stay the night, you will wake to the sound of surf and birds.