Modena's cathedral is one of the masterpieces of Romanesque architecture in Europe, and the inscription on its facade still names its makers with pride: the architect Lanfranco and the sculptor Wiligelmo. Work began in 1099 to house the relics of Saint Geminianus, the city's patron, and the result is a building of pale stone, with arcaded galleries, lions supporting the columns of the portal, and carved panels telling the story of Genesis with an expressive power that still surprises. The Ghirlandina, the cathedral's bell tower, leans slightly and rises high above the rooftops, and together with the Piazza Grande they form a UNESCO site.
The city around the cathedral is prosperous, compact and full of arcades, with elegant shops, markets and cafés. Modena is the home of traditional balsamic vinegar, aged for years in barrels in attics, and of tortellini, zampone and other rich dishes. It is also the hometown of Luciano Pavarotti, and the opera tradition runs deep here.
For riders, Modena means one thing: motors. The city lies at the heart of Italy's Motor Valley. Ferrari has its home in Maranello, a short ride south, with a museum and the Fiorano test track, while Maserati was founded in Bologna but has had its headquarters in Modena for decades. The Enzo Ferrari Museum in the city centre is housed in a striking yellow building next to the house where Enzo was born. Ducati in Borgo Panigale near Bologna and Lamborghini in Sant'Agata Bolognese are both within easy reach, so a day of pilgrimage to the temples of engineering is entirely possible.
The city centre has a limited traffic zone, the ZTL, monitored by cameras, and entering it without permission can result in hefty fines, so park outside and walk. Fuel and services are plentiful on the ring road. The roads south into the Apennines, toward Pavullo nel Frignano and the passes of the Modenese hills, are a great escape from the flat plain and the heavy traffic of the Via Emilia. Summer is hot and humid, winter foggy and cold; spring and autumn are the most pleasant seasons for a visit.