Castro is the capital of Chiloe, a green, rainy island off the coast of southern Chile that feels like a world apart, with its own food, mythology and architecture. About thirty thousand people live here, in a town spread along a bay and across hills, with the colourful stilt houses called palafitos lining the water. Dalcahue, a smaller port on the island's east coast with a lively craft market, lies a short ride away.
The ride on Chiloe is gentle, wet and full of surprises. Roads run along the coast and through rolling farmland, with views of the sea, small fishing boats and sheep grazing on bright green fields. The surface is generally good on the main road and rougher on side tracks, with the occasional pothole and plenty of damp patches. Fog and drizzle are common, and the weather can change in minutes, so waterproofs are a must. Summer, from December to March, is the driest season, but the island is rarely warm, and the light is soft and grey. Fuel is easy to find in Castro, and you will want to top up before heading onto the quieter west coast.
The island's most famous treasure is its wooden churches. More than a dozen of them have been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, built by Jesuit missionaries and local carpenters from native timber, with shingled walls, towers and ceilings shaped like ships' hulls. The church in Castro, painted bright yellow and violet, is easily the most striking, and inside it is simple and beautiful. Chiloe's culture also includes a rich mythology of sea spirits and ghost ships, and the islanders tell these stories with a straight face and sly humour.
Food is a highlight. The island's signature dish is curanto, a feast of shellfish, meat and potatoes traditionally cooked in a pit with hot stones, and you will find versions in cafes and market stalls. Chiloe also claims to be the home of the potato, with hundreds of varieties grown locally, and you will see them on every menu. The seafood is superb.
Nature on Chiloe is soft and green, with temperate forests, tidal flats and misty hills. Dolphins and penguins live along the coast, and bird life is rich. The air smells of salt, wood smoke and wet grass.
Fill up the tank here, bring warm clothes and a good rain jacket, and keep your schedule flexible.